Monday, September 17, 2012
By Abbey Khan
Stylist Peter Gray designed dreamy, diaphanous, wispy looks for the Badgley Mischka Spring 2013 collection, which was inspired by the fantastical sets and cinematography of Max Reinhardt’s 1935 film
1. Gray first applied new Moroccanoil Volumizing Mousse (available in October) to dampened hair and for models with damaged hair or split ends, he first applied Moroccanoil Treatment to quickly restore its condition.
2. Next, he blow dried the hair and created a side part, so the hair would be flat on top and so that he could sweep long bangs to the opposite side.
3. Then he used a small crimper to create a lightness that would marry the hair texture to the chiffon in the designs. He lightly (just barely) clamped on each section, continuously moving the crimper down the hair shaft, “nibbling” on the hair without stopping to give the hair an airy aesthetic.
4. Gray created a braided shelf using a horizontal section from ear to ear just above the occipital bone. This served as a base to pin and tuck the loose ribbons of hair into.
5. He then brushed the remaining top hair down over the braid. Then he took slim vertical sections to form ribbons. Halfway down, he inserted a u-pin and looped the hair back on itself and tucked it into the braided shelf.
6. He pulled out random ribboned strands of hair to create a floating, dreamy angelic texture.
7. Once the look had taken shape, he used a bit of Moroccanoil Luminous Hairspray Strong, ruffling the texture to give it a random, soft, feminine feel. He did this by lightly rubbing the tips of his fingers over the hair and tousled the back and sides, keeping the top area neat and flat.
8. Gray finished the look with a misting of Moroccanoil Glimmer Shine Spray to give it an ethereal looking shine.
The inspiration for The Blonds collection was Madonna meets Esther Williams, and hairstylist Antonio Corral Calero created fierce, glamorous hair.
1. Calero steamed synthetic hair pieces completely straight, then used Moroccanoil Treatment as a primer to give a boost of shine and soften the texture.
2. He placed the modelsâ€™ hair into the latex hood and attached the hair pieces.
3. Next, he backcombed the crown for structure, height and volume, and brought the hair back down and smoothed its surface.
4. He used a curling iron to create waves and volume from mid-hair to ends for movement and bounce.
5. Then he sprayed the entire look with Moroccanoil Luminous Hairspray Medium for a hold that allowed the freedom for hair to move and added shine.
6. He finished with a misting of Moroccanoil Glimmer Shine Spray for a blast of additional shine so the hair would shimmer in the lights as the models walked.
Orlando Pita of Orlo Salon designed strong, architectural looks for the collection. The sleek, shiny, and graphic style was straight on sides and back with front/mid-brow strands pulled back to simulate the effect of hair held in place by a barrette or ponytail.
1. Pita first applied the new Moroccanoil Volumizing Mousse (available in October) and blow dried the hair straight on sides and back with a Moroccanoil Ionic Ceramic Brush to create subtle volume. He sprayed Moroccanoil Luminous Hairspray Strong at the root of each section for structure.
2. Then, he created the designed effect at the top by taking graduated horizontal 1/2 inch sections starting at the crown, and sprayed each with Moroccanoil Luminous Hairspray Strong. (The first, at the crown, was sprayed 1″ from the root. The next was sprayed 1 and 1/2 inches from the root and the last few sections, closest to the hairline, were sprayed 2 inches away from the root).
3. He then smoothed, directed and shaped the hair.
4. Pita sprayed the entire look with Moroccanoil Luminous Hairspray Strong for hold and shine without looking like it was sprayed.
5. He finished with a light misting of Moroccanoil Frizz Control on top of the crown area to make sure there were no flyaways and to accent the design.
CUSHNIE ET OCHS
Antonio Corral Calero created simple, modern, empowering hair for the for the Cushnie et Ochs show.
1. First, Calero applied Moroccanoil Treatment from the roots to ends on damp hair, which gave models smooth, shiny and well-conditioned hair and it also helped get rid of any baby hairs around the hairline and prevent flyaways in the length of the hair.
2. Next, he applied a touch of new Moroccanoil Volumizing Mousse (available nationally in October) to give the hair just a touch of volume and texture, and to also provide a bit of lift and bounce as the models walked. It was important for the hair to stay visually simple and sleek, not full in any way.
3. Then he used a round Moroccanoil Ionic Ceramic Brush and blow dried the hair straight from roots to ends, making sure not to curve the ends but to shape them straight.
4. He then pulled the hair behind the ears and rubbed a bit of Moroccanoil Hydrating Styling Cream on his palms, applying it throughout the hair to eliminate any small flyaways or frizz.
5. Calero then created 1 1/2 inch sections, starting at the nape of the neck and used a flatiron to make sure the hair fell straight.
6. Then he made a clean, strong middle part and smoothed the sides of the hair.
7. He sprayed Moroccanoil Luminous Hairspray Medium for hold.
8. Lastly, he misted Moroccanoil Glimmer Shine Spray on the finished look to give it an opulent, dramatic shine.
Celebrity hairstylist Edward Tricomi used the early ’60s as his inspiration for the Joanna-Mastroianni show using only bobby pins and hairspray.
1. For this up-do, Tricomi brushed through the hair pulling it back into a high ponytail and securing with a bungee elastic.
2. He then gently twisted the ponytail until it began to coil, loosely pinning the hair into place as he went along.
3. Next, he wrapped the hair around the base of the ponytail and then moved off center to create a more interesting, abstract look.
4. The hair was pinned into place and finished off with a layer of hairspray.
1. He began this topknot the same way as the style above, pulling hair up into a high ponytail and securing with a bungee elastic.
2. Again, he gently twisted the ponytail until it began to coil. He then wrapped hair around the base of the ponytail and secured with pins.
3. Then he twisted the hair left at the end of the pony and wrap it around the entire bun, tucking it under in the back and finished with hairspray.
1. To create fullness and height, Tricomi teased hair in sections with a Mason Pearson brush. He teased section by section to get the big hair effect.
2. He sprayed each section with hairspray as he went along.
3. He then pushed hair back and gently brushed front pieces over the teased section and added another layer of hairspray.
4. Tricomi gaathered hair in the back and twisted up and under the teased section to create the up-do.
5. Secure the look with pins.
“The clothes featured linear lines with strong asymmetry and I wanted to counteract that with softness and romanticism,” hairstylist Anthony Turner said. “High necks and hats were part of the collection, so the hair had to work with those elements.”
1. Turner used Redken Full Frame 07 Protective Volumizing Mousse throughout the entire hair to give it a matte texture.
2. Then, he blow dried the hair so that it was dry and fluffy.
3. Next, he curled hair along the perimeter of the hairline with a 3/8 inch curling iron to give hair a slight bend.
4. He then sprayed hair with Redken Powder Refresh 01.
5. Turner pulled hair back with his fingers into a low ponytail and secured it with an elastic band.
6. He gently pulled the front pieces of the hair out for a loose and natural look.
7. Then, he teased the ponytail.
8. Turner wrapped the ponytail into a messy twist, pulling pieces of hair out and secured with pins.
9. He finished off with Redken Forceful 23 Super Strength Finishing Spray all over, and especially around hairline.
The collection was inspired by Jean-Paul Goude’s book, so lead hairstylist Anthony Campbell wanted to create something messy and stringy, grunge with some control to enhance these looks.
1. Campbell first saturated hair with Redken Radiant Sea Spray and Cutler Volume Spray.
2. Next, he blow dried hair using his hands to build up texture.
3. He then backcombed hair section by section to add fuzziness and texture.
4. He secured hair into a ponytail at the nape of the neck covering the ears.
5. He finished off by using Redken Fashion Work 12 Versatile Working Spray to set the style
At the Misha Nonoo presentation, key hairstylist Marcos Diaz of ION Studio for Davines designed a Frida Kahlo-esque look that was soft, pretty, and feminine. Diaz achieved this look by weaving bright colored and floral-patterned pieces of fabric into the hair.
1. Diaz began by spraying hair with Davines For Wizards No. 14 Sea Salt Primer to give it a great textured, gritty look and made the hair easy to work with.
2. He then parted hair in three vertical sections; two small sections at either side of the head and one larger section in the back.
3. Next, the hair on each side was worked into a traditional braid, while a piece of fabric was weaved throughout.
4. Diaz used the extra fabric left at the end of the braid to tie the two pieces together at the top of the head positioned to resemble a crown.
5. Finally, he gathered the remaining hair at the back of the head and created a loose bun that was secured with pins.
With the collection having a lot of geometric prints in her collection, lead hairstylist Jenny Balding wanted to enhance that with the hair by creating a strong sleek shape– country club girl gone a little bad was the inspiration for the hair.
1. Balding first created a clean off center part.
2. She then applied Redken Align 12 Protective Straightening Lotion throughout hair.
3. Then she blow dried hair really smooth and straight.
4. Next, she use a hot flat iron to keep it clean, smooth and flawless.
5. Balding then took the left side and swept it back into the middle of the nape and used a small elastic to give the illusion of an undercut.
6. She finished off by misting with Redken Fashion Work 12 Versatile Working Spray.
For his Spring 2013 collection, Zac Posen envisioned rich, vibrant hair color to make the runway looks truly pop. John Frieda International Creative Consultant Harry Josh brought this vision to life by using John Frieda Precision Foam Colour to enhance models’ shades with saturated colour and shine that complemented Zac Posen’s spring pieces. After coloring hair, John Frieda Global Creative Consultant Luigi Murenu melded two looks into one creating a graphic style in the front and a soft wave in the back. Drawing inspiration from polished wood, Murenu described the look as chic, elegant and timeless.
1. To keep the crown frizz-free, Murenu applied a dime-sized amount of Frizz-Ease Hair Serum Original Formula, smoothing hair downward from the top of the head to below the ear.
2. He then applied Frizz-Ease Curl Reviver Styling Mousse evenly through hair and brushed to uniformly distribute product.
3. Next, he created a severe middle part and blow dried completely, brushing hair back and away from the face to make the hair at the crown flat and smooth.
4. With a 1″ curling iron, he created a wave by wrapping small sections of hair twice around the barrel, making sure to stop before reaching the nape of the neck in order to keep the crown flat. Then he brushed hair out to create one uniform wave.
5. Lastly, he used Frizz-Ease Moisture Barrier Firm Hold Hairspray to keep the style in place.