Thursday, February 13, 2014
By Abbey Khan
Hairstylist Antoinette Beenders created a “country girl meets urbanite” look for the show. “The collection story tells the intersection of the pastoral and the urban,” said Tibi designer Amy Smilovic. “We wanted the hair to express a clean, natural feel but still convey soul and a refined grittiness. Imagine a natural beauty from the countryside who has the energy and je ne sais quoi of an urbanite. From the clothing to the hair, we wanted to show how these contrasting forces can co-exist.”
1. She liberally sprayed Pure Abundance Style Prep all over the hair to boost volume and to create texture.
2. Then she too a one inch wide section of hair right at the top of the head at the hairline and created a tight braid down the center of the head. She stopped braiding at the crown and used an elastic that matched the hair color so it disappeared into the hair.
3. Beenders took a small section of hair above the left ear and braided down to the end. She repeated this on the right side and connected both braids underneath the hair at the nape of the neck to hold hair away from face.
4. She then created three large, loose braids with the remainder of hair at the back and quickly clamped a flat iron down them.
5. Afterwards, she gently unraveled, tousled and ran Dry Remedy Moisturizing Oil through hair for soft, gentle waves with a little shine.
6. She set the look with a misting of Control Force Hair Spray for a strong but barely-there hold.
For this show, makeup artist Hayden Tee went for a fresh-faced, natural, whimsical look using Inglot Cosmetics.
1. He started with a sheer layer of AMC cream foundation for a natural finish.
2. Then he applied AMC cream concealer where needed to cover any imperfections.
3. He also concealed under the eyes and across the higher points of the face (cheekbones, bridge of the nose, forehead, cupids bow and chin) with Corrective Illuminator to add dimension.
4. Tee set the entire face with Illuminizing powder 41.
5. He used AMC cream concealer on the eyelid and then set with Illuminizing powder 41.
6. Next, he applied Freedom Eyeshadow 352 to the lid, lightly dusting 344 eyeshadow over the lid area, fading out from the lash line to the top of the lid.
7. He added a generous blended line of 326 along the top and bottom lash lines to add definition.
8. Moving on to the cheeks, he contoured under cheek bones with 344 eyeshadow and applied blush 27 on the apples of cheeks and blended up across the cheekbone.
9. Finally, he dabbed 135 lipstick lightly over the lip to give a stained effect as if the lips had been bitten and plumped up with natural color.
With the “lyrical abstraction” inspired collection, nail artist Pattie Yankee collaborated with the Delpozo design team to create a striking, yet simplistic nail.
“We wanted the models to be able to see the gorgeous pieces they were wearing,” said Yankee, “with the mirrored nails, we were able to achieve that.” Yankee and her team applied glue tabs to the back of the press on nails and adhered them to the models. The nails were then filed down to a natural length with a rounded shape.
Makeup artist Hayden Tee used Inglot Cosmetics to give the models a doll-like, winter-kissed look with an accent of gold. “The accent color for this collection is gold, so we wanted to incorporate that into the makeup in a dramatic and graphic way while keeping the makeup feminine and doll-like,” he said.
1. He first mixed AMC Cream concealer and under makeup base together and gently massaged into skin with fingers for a perfect dewy finish.
2. Next, he concealed the entire eye area with AMC cream concealer, Corrective Illuminator and set with eyeshadow 351 from the lid to brow bone.
3. Then he lined the waterline with eye pencil 31and and set with eyeshadow 351 to ensure coverage wass solid and opaque.
5. On the top lash line, he added individual lashes 45s ‘cluster’ and on the bottom lash line see added 45s ‘tree’ focusing on the center of the eye to give the illusion of a round eye shape in a 1960’s doll-like fashion.
6. Tee painted on a solid brow with gel liner 95 in a graphic arched shape, and built up more golden color and shine by adding freedom eyeshadow 155 till the brow looked solid and reflective.
7. He concealed around the eye area with AMC cream concealer slightly lighter than the skin tone and then covered with HD Illuminizing powder using a eyeshadow brush to get the most reflective finish possible so the brows had a halo-like glow.
8. He then blend a sheer layer of cream blush 80 over the entire cheek area and concentrated the most color on the apples, then gently dabbed Freedom Lipstick 27 onto the apples for an extra pop of color.
8. He applied a generous layer of cream blush 80 onto the lips and then dabbed Freedom Lip 27 through the lip opening to give the illusion that the lip had been sucking on a pink frozen popsicle.
9. To finish the look, he dusted the entire face with HD Illuminizing powder matching the skin tone and contoured the face with bronzer to add definition and dimension.
Celebrity Nail artist Pattie Yankee created a girly, yet feminine and strong look.
She mixed two custom Patricia Yankee Nail Lacquers, a taupe using ¾ of her Flesh shade and ¼ Cornerstone and a pink where she applied one coat of Love then a coat of Veil. Using her Inspire Nails in Clear Almond, she adhered to models’ nails and then filed into a rounded point.
Celebrity makeup artist Lauren Andersen used Avon makeup to give models a subtle edge look. “The look we created for the show was a reverse cat eye with voluminous lower lashes. It’s really just a modern edgy twist on a classic cat eye. The bold geometrically bottom-lined lashes were balanced with a more neutral lip.”
1. First, she applied Ideal Flawless Invisible CoverageLiquid Foundation to the skin with a foundation brush.
2. She contoured cheeks using Smooth Minerals Powder Foundation in a slightly darker shade than the liquid foundation.
3. Using SuperShock Gel Eyeliner Pencil in Blackout, she painted a bold line on the lower lash line and extended the line beyond the eye to create a reverse cat eye.
4. After applying false lashes to the bottom lash line for a dramatic look, she painted two coats of Mega Effects Mascara in black to make the lashes pop.
5. She then finished the look with an application of Ultra Color Absolute Lipstick in Caramel Comfort on lips.
Celebrity nail artist Pattie Yankee and her team created custom “rock n’ roll” inspired nails looks using Patricia Nail Lacquer in Void and Inspire Nails in Clear Almond.
Three custom nail looks were created to mimic the designs of the collection. For the leather fashion pieces, Yankee utilized leather fringe from the collection to create a stripe down the center of the stiletto shaped nail. Black lace was adorned over Void polish to create a textured nail look for some models. Lastly, metallic purple striping tape was placed in a “V” with the black polish to match the sequins used on dresses in the collection.
“The clothes for Novis this season are very structured and geometric so I wanted to create something soft and very beautiful for the makeup,” makeup artist Janell Geason said.
1. She prepped skin using Aveda Tourmaline Hydrating Creme.
2. For a hydrated matte complexion, she applied Aveda Inner Light Concealer as needed and finished with Aveda Inner Light Dual Foundation.
3. She then applied Aveda Petal Essence Eye Definer in Cacao with a smudger brush in the contour of eye and bottom lash line to enhance shape.
4. Geason then pressed Aveda Petal Essence Eye Color in Golden Cypress onto lid, followed by Sensitive Composition onto the lid for a glossy effect.
5. To highlight brows without being overdone, she used a little Aveda Petal Essence Eye Definer in Cacao on a brush and combed through the brow.
6. She then lightly contoured the cheeks with Aveda Inner Light Dual Foundation two shades darker than the model’s natural skin tone.
7. Afterwards, she lightly dusted Aveda Petal Essence Face Accents in Tesserae onto the apples of the cheeks for a light flush.
8. Finally, she mixed Aveda Nourish-Mint Sheer Mineral Lip Color in Sheer Fig and Nourish-mint Rehydrating Lip Glaze in Mangosteen and pressed into lips for a stained effect.
Hairstylist Antoinette Beenders created effortless structure and a delicate braid detail that
took hair away from the face. “This is a great look with young, funky texture that suits the lovely structured clothes,” Beenders said.
1. She started by spraying Aveda Pure Abundance Style Prep onto dry hair and rough blow dried to create texture and to plump up the hair.
2. Then she wrapped hair around a curling iron as needed to create varied, unstructured waves throughout the hair.
3. Beenders created a dramatic side part on the left side of the head and puffed Aveda Pure Abundance Hair Potion on to the root area in the front to naturally bulk up and thicken hair.
4. She gathered hair just above the left ear and created a hidden braid underneath– taking hair away from the face.
5. Then she created another braid on the right side of the face just above the right ear and attached the two small braids in the back of the head with an elastic.
6. She covered the elastic with a portion of hair from the crown so only the right braid was visible.
7. She finished with Aveda Control Force Firm Hold Hair Spray to make sure the hair stayed in place.
Nail artist Pattie Yankee worked with the Porsche Design team to create a retro-futuristic look.
Yankee used Patricia Nail Lacquer in Covenant, a vampy, deep eggplant. Keeping with the designer’s chic look, two coats were applied to short, natural nails with a glossy top coat.
Allen Ruiz created ‘flyaway texture’ for Public School’s first women’s collection using Aveda hair products. “I took inspiration from the layered elements in the line. The off-center, uneven part makes it purposely less than perfect. I brought texture back into the hair by layering products to ‘mess it up’ and enhance movement”.
1. He began with clean, dry hair and created an off-center part.
2. To prep the hair for styling, he sprayed Pure Abundance Style-Prep throughout the hair from roots to ends.
3. Then, he brushed it out to evenly distribute the product and add natural bulk to each strand.
4. Ruiz created a low braid and secured at the bottom with an elastic.
5. Afterwards, he massaged Control Paste into the braid to build texture and then loosened it with his fingertips. 6. He then applied just a hint of heat to the braid to lock in the pliable hold and then clipped it up to cool it down.
7. He undid the braid and added an extra bend in the hair with a 1 inch flat iron.
8. He sprayed the roots of the hair with Air Control Hair Spray for a flexible, lasting hold that also gave the hair a matte appearance.
9. Finally, he used the new Dry Remedy Daily Moisturizing Oil by emulsifying it into his hands and layering it into the ends of the hair to leave them soft and full of shine.
Hairstylist Odile Gilbert was inspired by delicate and youthful beauty for the Rodarte show.
1. After washing hair, Gilbert prepped hair with Frizz Ease Daily Nourishment Leave-In Conditioner.
2. He then pulled hair into two sections and created two long braids.
3. Gilbert then blew the hair dry to give it a subtle wave.
4. Then he undid the braids and worked Frizz Ease Unwind Curls Calming Crème through hair to give it relaxed, carefree texture, concentrating on the ends.
5. He took a piece from the side, twisted it and pulled it to the back of the head, securing it with pins and a Rodarte hand-made clip.
6. To finish the look, Odile spritzed Luxurious Volume All-Day Hold Hairspray to give hair touchable and flexible hold.
Using Inglot Cosmetics, makeup artist Hayden Tee created a futuristic, ethereal, dewy, glossy look on models as they walked down the runway.
1. First, he liberally applied Inglot AMC Face & Body Illuminator in 61 and 63, which he mixed together.
2. Then, he used AMC Cream Foundation where needed to even out skin tone and concealed with AMC Cream Concealer for extra coverage only where needed.
3. He gently applied a sheer cover of AMC Corrective Illuminator under the eye area and on the highest point of cheekbones to create dimension and a subtle highlight.
4. Tee gently stippled 98 Colour Play Lipstick onto a foundation brush and then lightly rolled onto the apple of the cheeks for a natural, timid flush.
5. He patted 351 Matte Eyeshadow onto the eyelid as a base to intensify the look, and then added 449 Pearl Eyeshadow, which he swept under the waterline and over the top lash line with color concentrated on the outer corners to give the appearance as if the skin is stained a light sheer red/pink.
6. Then he applied a generous line of 453 Pearl Eyeshadow, distinctly placed above the 449 Eyeshadow to reflect light and open the eye.
7. Finally, he applied Brush 337 Matte Eyeshadow lightly in the crease for depth and dimension.