New York Fashion Week Fall 2011: Hair Trends

Monday, March 07, 2011
By Tricia Stevens

For the Vera Wang show, Orlando Pita created modern and boldly romantic hair, emphasizing the contrast of rounded architectural shapes with graceful flowing lines.

1. Spray Moroccanoil Luminous Hairspray on the top, sides, back, and underneath the hair to give the hair the substance needed before backcombing.
2. Spray again with Moroccanoil Luminous Hairspray and blowdry the hair to help make its hold stronger.
3. Pull all the hair back and down, and backcomb at the nape of the neck and above the collarbone. Only this area should be teased with the rest of the hair left sleek with hair hanging down.
4. Slick back the front and add more hairspray on top to give the hair extra shine and to show the difference in texture from the rest of the hair which is more matte.
5. Pull back the hair and tie it in a loose low ponytail, several inches below the nape of the neck. Push the tied section of the ponytail up and over, and then crisscross two large bobby pins across the elastic band and pinned to the nape of the neck. This creates a beautiful voluminous shape with long, flowing pieces extending down.

At Prabal Gurung, Didier Malige was inspired by the vibrant and romantic aesthetic of the collection. Drawing from the Victorian era with a slightly street-wise, savage take – Havisham meets John’s Singer Sargent’s ‘A Parisian Beggar Girl’- the hair mirrors the juxtaposition between precious and casual couture. The look is daring – for the girl that is a risk taker, savvy and is full of texture, yet very romantic.

1. Apply Fekkai Coiff Oceanique Tousled Wave Spray heavily throughout dry hair.
2. Blowdry the front of the hair, forming finger-waves to add a defined shape and frame the face.
3. Secure the front pieces with pins, and hand-dry the rest of the hair to enhance the natural texture.
4. Once dried, add a little bit of a more exaggerated wave throughout the hair by using a 1 1/4 inch curling iron on random pieces.
5. Lastly, backcomb the hair to achieve the exact feel of a slightly tousled, intended messy ‘do.
6. Finish with Fekkai Sheer Hold Hairspray to keep it light and airy.

At the Timo Weiland presentation, Leonardo Manetti of ION Studio created a look that complemented the designer’s collection, which expressed what Gloria Vanderbilt and Keith Richards would have looked like when returning from India in the 1960s.

1. Coat hair with Davines Defining Creative Moulding Foam.
2. Ensure texture isn’t removed, roughly dry the Moulding Foam, removing any curl or wave. Keep locks messy, but not too messy.
3. Create a severe side part.
4. Sweeping the parted section of the hair across the face, secure the hair behind the ear with a large sewing needle and elastic rope that matches the color of your hair.
5. Spray Davines Defining Gloss mid-shaft to the ends for a polished sheen.

At the Costello Tagliapietra show, the inspiration for Nelson Vercher of the Rita Hazan Salon was the suburban housewives of the late 60’s/early 70’s who were just starting to enjoy their independence. Teasing was starting to go out of style, but women were unwilling to let it go completely – the look is in-between eras; the teased bouffant is tame, semi-disheveled. This look is special because it celebrates the modern woman who typically wears her hair flat and straight, but instead Vercher made it unique by making it fuller and fluffier.

1. Prep hair with Phytovolume Actif and Phyto Intense Volume Mousse applied to the roots for volume and height.
2. Rough-dry the hair, focusing on the roots for maximum volume.
3. Separate strands into pin curls, allowing to set for at least 20 minutes.
4. Take out pins and tease hair generously at the roots.
5. Use a jumbo-barrel curling iron to fill out hair with loose waves.
6. Smooth the look with a hairbrush.

Peter Gray, who designed the glamorous updos for the Badgley Mischka show, said, “I had an image of a young Catherine Deneuve in The Hunger in mind when I designed these looks. Confident, sophisticated and passionate – hair that was the epitome of glamour with the perfect touch of soft, disheveled strands.”

1. Make a low part on one side, from the temple to the nape and then smooth the hair back on one side.
2. Then rope-twist it, following the hairline and back to the nape of the neck.
3. Blowdry the hair straight on the opposite side using Moroccanoil Hydrating Styling Cream and a flat paddle brush to give the hair a smooth, shiny texture and soft
4. Next, spray Moroccanoil Luminous Hairspray closely on each section to help bring the ends together and reduce fluffiness.
5. Use a 1” curling iron to create a roller set, and roll the curls upward instead of down, to take the volume out of the hair. Let the reverse rolls cool for a few minutes to better hold the shape.
6. After brushing the hair out, start working on the roll. Backcomb the hair and form an asymmetric French twist from the front temple all the way to the nape.
7. Pull together and unify the hair on each side, fasten it together in a double ponytail, and roll them into an asymmetric chignon.
8. Use Moroccanoil Glimmer Shine Spray on the sleek side to emphasize a smooth, shiny and modern texture.
9. To complete, lightly brush the surface hair of the full roll on the opposite side to free a few soft, disheveled strands and soften the look.
10. Set with Moroccanoil Luminous Hairspray.

Paul Hanlon brought out the purity of the Proenza Schouler collection by keeping hair natural, glossy, and pulled back to accentuate an open neck. He envisioned the hair of a Navajo Indian girl meets an All American girl. The result was hair all one length with soft, razored ends and a style that felt easy, wearable and chic, with a touch of grunge and coming undone.

1. Add 22 inch extensions around the crown of the head. Pay special attention to areas with shorter layers and achieve a long languid silhouette that’s ready to be pulled back into a chic pony.
2. Once finished, hair should rest just above the waist. Part the hair slightly off center and apply the Fekkai Coiff Strong Hold Volume Mousse to the front of the hair, forming a frame.
3. Then apply Coiff Perfecteur Anti-Frizz Silkening Crème and Fekkai Advanced Salon Technician Color Care Anti-Fade Top Coat to the hair, ironing the front
pieces to seal in sleekness and shine.
4. Gather hair midway down the back and pull into a low ponytail and tie the end into a slight knot.
5. Finish the look by spraying Fekkai Coiff Oceanique Tousled Wave Spray and Fekkai Coiff Sheer Hold Hairspray. This creates a dry, rough texture for the back of the hair that makes the style feel relaxed, unique, and individualized.

James Pecis created two looks that included soft and beautiful braided hair to complement the ethereal mood of the Nanette Lepore collection.

Look 1:
1. Create small sections of hair and spray Moroccanoil Luminous Hairspray into each.
2. Then blowdry away from the face using a paddle brush. Use an upward motion of the brush to give the hair lift, and Moroccanoil Luminous Hairspray to build up texture.
3. Next, slightly backcomb at the top of the head, teasing a bit more on the front hairline, and mist with more hairspray to give it lift.
4. Weave a French braid starting at the right temple, picking up more hair as I worked my way back around the head in an arc pattern, over to the left temple and then create another layer of braid as you work back to the right temple again.
5. Continue this pattern all the way to the occipital bone then take two bobby pins and cross them to hold the braid in place.
6. Backcomb the remaining ponytail and blend it into the braided effect.
7. Free up the braid for a looser, softer look, by massaging the braid with fingers to keep it from looking too hard or controlled.
8. Finish with a light misting of Moroccanoil Glimmer Shine Spray to give it lots of reflection.

Look 2:
1. Blowdry the hair on sections sprayed with Moroccanoil Luminous Hair Spray.
2. Starting at the right temple, even though a French braid is normally even on both sides, make this braid so that it asymmetrically sways to the left side, and so that most of the braid stays on the top part of the head. Keep hair close to the sides of the head as you work. The final effect is very free, very soft and very feminine.

Orlando Pita created inventive, sleek horizontal buns that flawlessly complemented the graceful simplicity of this season’s luxurious clothes at the Carolina Herrera show.

1. Blowdry hair straight using Moroccanoil Hydrating Styling Cream and Moroccanoil Ceramic Ionic Brush to create sleekness as well as add volume.
2. Since the look of the hair itself is so important, if you have dry, abused hair, first apply a bit of Moroccanoil Treatment to restore condition. It absorbs right in and you can style, groom and treat with it at the same time.
3. After creating a low part, pull hair back, letting one side sweep across the side of the face, making a small ponytail in the back.
4. Let strands hang down, then lift them up, through and down, and attach it with pins at the fold. It looks tucked in, almost like an envelope.
5. Finish the style with a light spray of Moroccanoil Luminous Hairspray to control flyaways.

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